Questions

Open the Wristla app on the watch and go to Settings → Tesla keys → + Pair car. From there just follow the prompts on the watch and on the car's touchscreen — the first pairing asks for one tap of your key card on the console, which is how the car learns to trust the watch. Before you start: the watch has to be paired to your Wristla account and linked to that car, and you have to be next to the car — the key is added over Bluetooth, not through the cloud. Once paired, the car recognises the watch as you walk up: it unlocks and lets you drive without a phone and without internet. Keep the Wristla app open on the watch while you use the key — Connect IQ gives no app Bluetooth in the background.

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Your Rating is a single 0–100 summary of how you drive. It looks at four things: Efficiency — how economically you drive every day (smooth inputs, sensible speeds, good use of regen). Safety — how often telemetry sees hard braking, hard acceleration, sharp cornering or extended speeding. Experience — how many kilometres you have driven with Wristla. Tenure — how long you have been tracked here. Recent driving matters more than history from a year ago, so a bad week gradually fades while steady form lifts the number. Safety needs a few days of data to learn your baseline — until then you will see a progress bar instead of a score, and the Rating is computed from the other three parts.

When a Tesla has more than one driver in your Wristla family, every closed trip shows a "probably {name} ({percent}%)" hint on the trip card. The numbers always sum to 100% across the family. Confidence below 85% is shown as a hint — you can confirm or correct it from the trip card and the fix instantly recomputes both drivers' efficiency for that day. Charging events inherit the prediction from the most recent trip on the same car when the charge starts within 30 minutes of parking. If the charge starts later — for example a scheduled overnight charge — no automatic guess is made and you can pick the driver manually.

Green streak counts how many days in a row your overall daily efficiency score landed in the green zone (75/100 or above). A long streak shows consistently efficient driving habits. The counter resets to zero on any day that scores yellow or red, or on a day with no driving data.

This metric compares today's actual energy use (kWh) against a baseline for the same driving conditions. Initially Wristla uses a fixed industry baseline. Once you've accumulated enough driving days, the baseline switches to your own personal rolling average, adjusted for driving context (city/highway/mixed) and temperature. A positive percent means you used less energy than your norm — a negative means more.

When your actual energy consumption is lower than the baseline (personal or fixed), the difference in kWh is your estimated savings. The daily number shows today's savings, and the weekly number sums up the last 7 days. Negative deltas (days where you used more than baseline) are counted as zero savings — they do not reduce the weekly total.

Trend compares your recent driving (last week) against your longer-term average (last month). If recent driving is meaningfully more efficient, the trend is Improving. If meaningfully less efficient, Declining. Otherwise Stable. The signal becomes more reliable after a few weeks of driving data.

Wristla learns your personal driving profile over time. The 7-day bar fills one segment per day of driving data — once full, the system has enough context for a basic personal baseline. The 30-day bar tracks the full calibration window: once complete, comparisons use your own rolling average by driving context and temperature, instead of fixed industry averages. Each segment represents one day of valid driving. The system keeps updating as you drive, always using the most recent month.

Pace of Aging shows how fast your car is aging relative to normal, based on 5 health components measured over a 30-day rolling window. A pace of 1.0x means normal aging rate. Below 1.0x (e.g. 0.7x) means the car is aging slower — you are taking good care of it. Above 1.0x (e.g. 1.3x) means faster aging from harsh usage. The score combines battery health, driving style, charging habits, efficiency, and climate stress into a single pace number.

"X% retained" estimates how much of your pack's original usable capacity is still available. When enough recent charging sessions are available, Wristla measures this directly from real charging data — comparing energy delivered against the change in battery level. When that's not yet possible, it falls back to Tesla's calibrated rated range. Expected retention depends on pack chemistry and age: NCA/NMC packs (Long Range, Performance) typically lose around 5% in the first year and roughly 1-1.5% per year after; LFP packs (Standard Range RWD) age more slowly. A reading meaningfully below expected often means the BMS estimate is stale — a single charge to 100% can refresh it. Persistent low readings after a calibration charge may indicate real wear from heavy fast-charging, frequent 100%/0% cycling, or extreme temperatures.

This component reflects your acceleration, braking, and max speed habits over the last 30 days of driving. Aggressive driving accelerates wear on tires, brakes, suspension, and the battery pack.

Two factors shape this score: how often you use DC fast charging (Supercharger) versus AC home charging, and the average battery level at end of charge. Frequent fast charging and routinely charging to 100% accelerate battery degradation. The ideal pattern is mostly home/AC charging to 80% or less.

This is simply the rolling 30-day average of your daily efficiency score. Higher efficiency generally correlates with gentler use of the drivetrain, better tire maintenance, and appropriate climate management — all of which reduce wear.

Extreme temperatures (below -5C or above 40C) stress the battery pack and other components. This metric tracks how many of the last 30 days involved extreme temperature driving, and whether you used battery preconditioning before trips. Using preconditioning in cold weather significantly reduces thermal stress on the pack.

Driving style combines hard acceleration, hard braking, time spent at very high speed, and sharp high-speed cornering into a single 0-100 signal for the trip. Lower scores mean smoother inputs. Smoother driving usually reduces avoidable tire, inverter, and aerodynamic losses, so it often improves trip efficiency and energy versus norm.

Vs norm compares measured trip energy with the expected baseline for a trip of similar distance and driving context. On very short trips the energy delta can still be measurable, but the distance is too short for a reliable percent-vs-norm comparison. In that case the UI shows Short trip and keeps the kWh delta only.

Hard acceleration pulls high pack power and increases inverter, tire, and aero losses. Smooth launches usually cost less energy.

Aerodynamic drag rises rapidly with speed, so short bursts at high speed can cost disproportionately more energy.

Average speed is scored against the trip context: city, mixed, or highway driving. Each context has its own efficient band, so city trips are not judged like highway cruising.

It shows how much energy was recovered through regenerative braking and returned to the battery. Higher recovery means less energy was wasted on friction braking.

Late or aggressive braking usually means momentum was wasted instead of carried forward or recovered smoothly through regen.

Heating or preparing the battery and cabin before driving or charging avoids expensive warm-up after the trip or charge has already started.

Low pressure increases rolling resistance, so the car needs more energy to maintain the same speed.

For daily use, charging above roughly 80% without a trip-planner reason usually adds unnecessary time and battery stress.

If battery heating continues after charging starts, the pack likely was not ready yet and some energy was spent warming it during the session.

Charging above daily targets is more justified when Tesla navigation expects a longer drive or Supercharger stop soon after.